The Legend Continues: Sam Wo, the Oldest Restaurant in Chinatown

Sam Wo, at 713 Clay St, is the oldest restaurant in Chinatown, tracing itself back to 1908, just after the 1906 San Francisco earthquake. Founded by 3 siblings from Taishan province of China (adjacent to Guangzhou), the restaurant is still open today, having barely survived COVID. The name literally means three peace, referring to the 3 siblings, and may they ever work together peacefully.

Sam Wo, having survived this long, is considered an institution of Chinatown, with many people enjoying its authenticity and a bit of dingy ambiance. Plenty of famous people ate at Sam Wo: Allen Ginsberg, Herb Caen, and even Conan O'Brien, but its low prices and very late hours (open till 3AM back in the 2010's) also means it sees plenty of regulars, locals, and late-nighters.

Sam Wo is also famous for having the "world's rudest waiter" by the name of Edsel Ford Fung, who had a house rule: "No Booze, No B.S., No Jive, No Coffee, Milk, Soft Drinks, Fortune Cookies." He was infamous for smoking while scribbling orders, criticizing what you order, bringing you the wrong items, flirting with young women, and insulting the guys. He will also refuse to provide forks or translate the menu. Edsel Ford Fung was made famous by the legendary San Francisco Chronicle columnist Herb Caen, who often patronize the place, ask Edsel about political topics, and print the Yogi Berra-like responses. Edsel Ford Fung died in 1984.

Edsel Ford Fung (center) and guests/fans,
circa 1982 via Wikicommons

The current location is Sam Wo's second location. Its original location, 813 Washington, is now a small cosmetic shop. Sam Wo was forced to close in 2012, due to a combination of failing health department inspections, and rising rent. But they managed to reopen in 2015 at its present location, taking over from a failed tea restaurant known as Anna Court / Bakery.

If you do order there, try their Toisan Rice Rolls. And be sure to get some of their famous mustard sauce. WARNING: use sparingly. It WILL clear your sinuses.

To learn more about Sam Wo's history, you can read Denise Clifton's book "Tables from the Rubble", a book about how several restaurants, including Sam Wo, started in the rubble of the 1906 San Francisco Earthquake.

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